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Simpson Springs was what one might call a Mail
Station or Home Station for the Pony Express. It served
many functions in the 1800s and is now represented by a
mere monument.
Sir Richard Burton described the types of stations in
detail: “On this line there were two types of stations —
the Mail Station, where there is an agent in charge of
five or six boys, and the express station — every second
— where there is only a master and an express
rider.”
Burton continues on to give the best description of
“express station life” that I have been able to find
anywhere: “It is a hard life, setting aside the chance
of death, no less than three murders have been committed
by Indians this year. The work is severe, the diet is
sometimes reduced to wolf mutton, or a little boiled
wheat and rye, and the drink to brackish water. A pound
of tea comes occasionally, but the droughty souls are
always out of whiskey and tobacco.”
Some of the express riders would ride 75 miles in one
shot because of lack of riders or because they arrived
at a station being burned by Indians and were chased on
to the next one. These amazing riders carried the last
messages of the Buchanan Administration, the news of
Lincoln’s election, and of the shots fired at Fort
Sumter. Mismanagement, the Civil War and the telegraph
all combined to doom the Pony Express, however, and most
of its holdings were absorbed by the Overland Stage
companies.
The Overland Stages that stopped at Simpson Springs
featured heavy Concord Stages with comfortable space for
six passengers, more if crowded in and on top of the
coaches. Smaller “Mud Wagons” were used in the winter
time. Stations such as Simpson’s greeted the passengers
with meals, and telegraph service. These Concord stages
rumbled regularly across the desert from 1861 to 1869.
The service came to an abrupt halt with the completion
of the Transcontinental Railroad at Promontory in May
1869. Simpson Springs activity dropped off significantly
not only due to the discontinuation of the stage
contract but the subsequent removal of the telegraph
line to the route of the newly completed railroad. For
the next 50 years, stage service was sporadic in support
of mining activities in the Dugway Range, Fish Springs
Range, and at Gold Hill. As the mines died out, the
spring became an important watering point on the Sheep
Herders trail from the winter grazing lands of the west
desert to the shearing pens at Tintic Junction and
Jehrico. In the 1890s, several buildings were
constructed on the site, including a small grocery store
and the home of Dewey and Clara Anderson, which was
destroyed by fire in 1957.
The ruins of the Anderson house remain behind a chain
link fence with a faded interpretive marker telling the
story. In the 1930s, Simpson Springs once again came
alive with the assignment of a Civilian Conservation
Corps company from Clover Creek to the springs. Numerous
structures were built and much work was done on
improving the Pony Express Trail Road, Stock Watering
Ponds, and the Weiss Highway in particular. Evidence of
the camp remains today, including a foreboding gateway
with two large stone pillars marking the entrance to the
camp.
All of this history, folklore, and mystique make
Simpson Springs certainly well worth a visit. To get
there from Tooele, head south on SR-36 to the marked
Pony Express Trail just before you reach the town of
Vernon. Turn right and follow this improved dirt road 25
miles west to Simpson Springs. The road is still
incredibly bumpy and rocky as you round the Simpson
Range and head south towards the springs. When you are
at the springs, you will find a reconstructed stage
station built by the Future Farmers of America with the
support of the BLM in 1976.
You will undoubtedly notice the rock wall along the
Pony Express trail outlining a portion of the old CCC
Camp. If you enter between the rock pillars and head
south up into the old camp, you will notice numerous
building foundations, and an interpretive BLM panel
located just east of the old center of the camp and flag
pole base. To the east, there is a wind-hollowed cave on
a knoll overlooking the entire area. Think of the
Indians that must have used this vantage point long
before the white man ever came. Think of how Simpson’s
wagons must have looked, laboring across the desert
towards the Old River Bed to the west. Think about the
Pony Express rider pushing his poor horse as fast as it
could go with a bunch of Indians trailing behind, and of
the bouncing, red, Concord stages rumbling along the
dusty trail. Lastly, think of the hard-working men of
the Civilian Conservation Corps that lived out here in
the desolation for six months at a time. If only you
could turn back time and observe it all from this
knoll...
If you intend to visit Simpson Springs, inquire from
the BLM what the road conditions are and take good maps,
plenty of food and water and extra fuel. Also, make sure
you have a jack, tire iron, and spare tire. This is the
most interesting station site on the Pony Express
National Historic Trail in my opinion and it is well
worth a visit. |